Searching for a Table Top Finish
January 31st, 2010 by Bob
It seems to me that the Achilles Heel of most furniture is the horizontal surface. This is especially true for dining and coffee tables. Over the years I have tried many different finishes: oils, lacquers, poly-urethanes, high tech and low tech. I have wiped, brushed, sprayed, padded, pleaded and prayed. All have their advantages and disadvantages. I’d have to say that a good deal of the durability depended on the user and how he or she intended to use the table. Everyone uses horizontal surfaces differently. Some treat them reverently and carefully. Others use and abuse them. And they show EVERTHING. This is because horizontal surfaces reflect light much more than vertical surfaces. As a result every flaw, scratch and every bit of surface dirt becomes visible. Additionally some finishes can be compromised by water and alcohol.
I like a finish that does not feel or look like plastic. Given the wood that I use to make my furniture, I want the beauty to be seen. The problem is striking a balance between protecting the wood and protecting the finish.
A few years ago I discovered “Tried and True” a linseed oil varnish and found it to be a finish that looked beautiful, gave a good amount of protection, and though it required a good deal of time and rubbing to apply, it was fairly easy to achieve good results. Its main drawback is that because it contains no toxic driers etc., it dries very slowly. One coat can take 2 weeks or more to dry and for a table top you might want to apply 6 coats…you do the math. The photo below is of a Koa Dining Table that has such a finish. I finished making it in October. It’s last coat was applied three weeks ago and it is leaving my shop next week, February 7th. Under normal circumstances this is not a practical finish. Luckily, I had the space, the client was willing to pay in advance and was not in a rush because the house would not be finished until February. The table measures 98 by 48 wide at the widest end. The base is mahogany with a light ebony stain.
Koa Slab Top Dining Table
I am now trying a variation on the above finish. I have mixed Tried and True Linseed Oil Varnish with Man-O-War Spar Varnish in a 1 to 1 proportion and added a “dash” of mineral spirits to slightly thin it so that I can brush it on like an oil finish. My hope is that by adding the spar varnish this will help the mix dry overnight or at least within 24 hours. Additonally, I hope that it will be easier to apply and provide better moisture resistance.
I am now using this mixture on the base of a walnut slab top coffee table that I am making. If I like the results, I will use it on the top. I have prepared the surface sanding to 22o grit. On half the surface I am applying the spar varnish/Tried and True mix with a rag and wiping off. On the other half I am filling the pores with shellac – 3 coats – and then sanding the top again from 120 to 220 so that the shellac stays only in the pores. Beginning tomorrow, I will apply the varnish oil mix and we’ll see what the results are. I am curious whether there will be a difference in durability and “look” between the shellac pore filled side and the non shellac, non pore filled side. I will take photos as I go along and report what I find.
Hi Robert, I’m interested in the results to your experiments. I make mountain dulcimers, and a friend of mine recommended T&T Varnish Oil, although I have not made the switch yet. I’m curious on what solvents you can use to thin the varnish oil so that it goes on easier. I’m not interested in soaking the wood or leaving the varnish lying around for an hour. What I’ve been using is thinned Tru-oil where I barely dip cloth into the mixture, rub it on very thinly and let it dry overnight. I seal the wood first with shellac.
By the way, your tables look great. I have one that is suar wood from Indonesia but they just sprayed lacquer. Obviously faster. I maintain it with Johnson’s paste wax.
Regards, Clare
Hi Clare, I’m sorry that I am responding so late to your inquiry…I sat myself down to finally report on the past year of finishing and saw your comment. I am, this evening, publishing two new posts and will write down what I’ve learned in the next few days. To answer you question about T&T varnish oil…I’d say that you don’t want to thin it. It is made in an environmentally friendly manner…no heavy metal or petroleum solvents. It is labor intensive but since you are making dulcimers (we have one at home) the surface area is small and should work quickly.
Since you say that you don’t want to leave it on for an hour, I’d suggest that you try the T&T Danish Oil. We use this on all non horizontal surfaces. We use it sparingly on a brush but sort of scrub it on about a foot square then wipe it off. Two coats give as much protection as most other 3 coats of finish…it is also environmentally friendly both to the earth and to you. Hope this is helpful
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